Simply put, needle felting is the art of crafting felted objects out of un-spun wool or other fibers using repeated jabbing action with barbed felting needles. Objects can be flat or three dimensional; fun or functional. The possibilities truly are endless.

Sculptural needle felting is quickly growing in popularity and I am honored to pass along the magic that I was lucky enough to learn from Birgitte. Thanks Eleanor, Ayala and especially Birgitte!

I wish I could say to just run down to your nearest craft and hobby store and pick up everything you need. Unfortunately, it's not that easy. You may find small packets of fibers and expensive felting tools that hold several needles – these are generally for flat needle felting techniques used in embellishing garments and accessories. Even if you happen to have a fiber shop in your neighborhood, the chances of having the best wool selections for needle felting are slim. But you will find exactly what you need on the internet.

Online groups and forums can also be of great value. I personally recommend one that is near and dear to my heart. I am the owner/admin of The Felting & Needle Felting Forum. A large group of felting enthusiasts from around the world, creating, sharing and inspiring. Please join the fun – FeltingForum.com

Understanding the concepts of needle felting and a great imagination are really all you need but learning specific techniques is quite helpful. Make sure to check out Felt Alive Video Workshops to really learn the magic!

I start nearly every project out by needle felting a core structure.

Because this structure will be completely covered, I choose to use an inexpensive, un-dyed wool batting. It is sold in bulk as craft batting. It makes good economic sense to use a less expensive wool for the core and save all the pretty colors for the outer layers.

So besides saving me a little money, the core wool I choose has properties that work perfect for sculpting the core of my characters.

It is springy, nearly spongy and makes strong and flexible needle felted joints. It is free from any long, hairy fibers and it tears off the batting easily, handles easily and felts quickly. I rarely use it for sculpting a complete character because the surface has a rather dull, yellow appearance and the surface tends to pill quickly.

This product is avaiable in my Online Needle Felting Supply Shop

Wool! Fleece, Roving, Tops, Sliver and Batting.

There are many, many choices of wool out there. Fleece, Roving, Tops, Batting…from so many varieties of sheep…and you can even needle felt with other animal fibers like Alpaca. I have found you can needle felt with nearly any type of fiber but for creating lifelike soft sculptures, there are very few that work well. My work is quite soft and flexible so I need wool that offers special qualities to attain a well felted piece that is flexible and durable. I also don't like to stab at the wool for hours on end so wool that felts fast with a needle is always my choice. Fast felting is a quality that is essential for this impatient girl.

Typically wool (aka fleece) has either been prepared for spinning into yarn or for traditional wet felting. For spinning into yarn, the wool has typically been cleaned, perhaps dyed and then carded (brushed) into long ropes of fibers called roving – if the roving has gone through the additional process of combing to remove the shorter fibers leaving the remaining long fibers running in the same direction, the end product is long, luxurious ropes of fiber often referred to as tops or combed tops and also sliver. Merino wool is often prepared this way. Strangely enough, however, more often than not, you will see combed tops referred to as roving. Besides being used for spinning, tops, roving or sliver are used in traditional wet felting.

Batting is another preparation of wool that is used primarily for wet felting and spinners love it too. It is carded (brushed) using large machines that make flat, wide sheets of wool batting. Un-dyed, it is often sold as quilt batting. I have found that wool in batting form (wide sheets) seems to work great for sculptural needle felting. It is harder to find than roving (long ropes) or tops (long, combed ropes.) Pulling wool off a sheet of batting and preparing it to form into the desired shape is much easier than pulling off strips of roving.

In the past, I used to have to send you all over the internet to track down supplies. But now, lucky for you, you have a one-stop shop for all of my favorite needle felting supplies. My new online shop SPECIALIZES in needle felting supplies. Yes, an online shop that specializes in needle felting!!! Come and check it out.

My favorite supplies can now be found in in my  needle felting supplies shop!

www.needlefeltingsupplies.com

Upholstery foam works fine but make sure to get a piece at least 3 inches thick – the needle travels through this stuff effortlessly so it should be thick enough to protect the table or your lap. There are brush-like devices designed for needle felting, the needle pierces into the bristles of the brush. I haven't tried one but I've heard they work great. I don't recommend using Styrofoam – the needle will mutilate it in a hurry.

I prefer these high-density charcoal gray foam pads.  They hold up to the abuse of the felting needle quite well and should last you through many, many projects.

What are the best color choices for flesh tones?

I have found three flesh tones that I primarily use.  I use Norwegian Felting Batts in Flesh Light, Medium & Dark.  Each of these tones can be changed dramatically with a litte well placed highlighting and shading during the sculpting process.  These shades are available in my shop. 

But don't let my guidelines hold back your creativity.  Flesh is a matter of subject and imagination.  This witch has flesh made with Norwegian C-1 Batting in Kiwi color.

Most of my needle felted dolls beg for hair. For straight hair, Merino Roving is my favorite. For curly locks, I love hand-dyed Cotswold Locks. Handspun Art Yarn is another favorite for hair.

Felting Needles are manufactured for industrial felting machines. They are designed to fit into large plates that hold many needles. Industrial felt has many applications; so next time you open the trunk of your car, the felt liner may take on new interest to you!

Felting needles are made of steel and have a tip with multiple blade edges that run partially up the shaft. The blades have barbs which grab fibers and tangle them together; creating felt. The blades are very sharp and very brittle. Felting needles can easily pierce through skin and they also break very easily.

The opposite end of the blade is "L" shaped with a blunt end. Felting needles were not designed to be held in human hands and that "L" shaped end is uncomfortable to use. Several types of handles have been introduced to the market that hold single or multiple needles designed for needle felters. Felt Alive has even found a way to improve on the standard felting needle!

Much care needs to be taken to learn how to handle felting needles. Really, the old adage applies – "It's all fun and games until someone loses an eye." I've never heard of an eye injury from needle felting but vigorous or improper use can result in injury and the tip could potentially snap and hit your eye.

Felting needles come in many blade/barb/gauge configurations which are useful for different techniques but they all look pretty much alike.  I have settled on three sizes that work best for me. And I color code them so I can identify them at a glance.

In fact, I take the mystery out of felting needles with my Felt Alive Super-Duper Felting Needles. The three different gauges of needles are color coded and the ends are cushioned for comfort and ease of use. I use only the highest quality, Foster Brand Felting Needles, so you are sure to get the sharpest, strongest most reliable needle on the market.

Yellow – 40T (triangle blade) for general felting. This is a fine gauge needle – If I had to pick just one needle use, this would be it – it gives me fine control of the shape of the wool.

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The videos on this site are the same videos you will find on my DVD. They have been converted for online viewing.

You can enjoy all Felt Alive workshops in their entirety including all 10 hours of my Needle Felted Dolls workshop. Scroll through chapters just like on the DVDs, take all the time you need because your access is unlimited-you can even download the videos. And if you like the idea of watching online but really would like to have the workshops on DVD, you are in luck!! All DVD workshops INCLUDE online access – that means you can watch while you wait for the mail!